Tuesday, February 14, 2017

The Great Freeze - Part 9 (Then end)

I had researched over the two days previous pretty much everything that I would need to get around Vilnius. I had maps, a GPS phone that worked, money, a place to stay by the river. I had check out the bus maps, figured out which bus would take me from the train station to where I was staying and which one I would need to get to the airport the next evening to get back to Stockholm.

I had decided that I didn't want to get up at 4 am to make it to the airport by 5 for a 6 am flight only to fly the rest of the day home once I got back to Stockholm. So as an alternative I decided to head back to Stockholm the night before. That way I could simply get up at a reasonable hour and make it to the airport refreshed to meet Igor, as promised with a cup of coffee. That lead in didn't mean anything, I just thought I would explain. I did decided to walk to where I was staying in Vilnius though.

The guy I was renting the apartment from did say it was too far to walk but i took that as a challenge and google maps said that it would only be 40 minutes which is nothing for me and my backpack. It took more like an hour and 15 minutes because I got lost in old town. i took a couple wrong turns because I was having trouble reading/finding the street signs. But I did eventually make it. It was cool to get to explore a bit while walking.


I got into the place I was staying charged up my phone and laptop a bit, checked out the maps so more. After looking at the maps I decided the most logical way to explore the city was to walk to the east half of the city that day and then the next day I would walk the West half which would ultimately drop me right where I needed to be to pick up the bus to the airport that evening.

I wont lie, I was a little nervous to go out on my own, walk around a city that I had never been before, where I was pretty sure very few people spoke English but I also found it kind of exciting. Phone in hand, with map loaded and ready I set out.
View from my apartment
 
Vilnius is fairly similar to almost all other large cities. I walked up to the more residential area of Vilnius first, across the river from where I was staying. Followed the road and weaved in and out of the houses and apartment complexes. Eventually I found a foot bridge where I learned that "Rap is not dead" (see picture as proof) that took me back across the river to where there was suppose to be an archaeology site and castle on a large hill. I did see it but only from the base of the hill on which it was perched. They had closed by the time that I got there and so instead of marching up to the top and getting what I imagine is a really good view of the city I walked through a rather large park where I located some fun Christmas lighting and a huge chess board.
Look across the river at the castle

See, proof.
Getting to the castley park
cool statue before the park

triangle of churches and monuments before the park


Not wanting to stay in any one place too long, due to cold and lack of overall time to see the city, I only spent minimal time in the Park. I found a secret stairwell that is not every secret as it looked very well trod probably by the students that live on the top of the hill coming down into the university. There are some parts of Vilnius, I read later that were very much the scene of beatniks and hippies, not surprisingly near the university were I saw the most art studios, craft shops and cafés. This path took me into the aforementioned beatnik area where I stopped at a local shop and got a snake of Kefir, banana and some sort of pastry roll. I wound my way through the streets until I was dropped down to where I had walked earlier in the day on the way from the train station.
aww the Meat Lovers Pub

I got to the main street and walked into a small shopping mall. I found something to buy but the lady didn't speak English so I was actually able to use my minimal Russian skills to ask how much the item was and to understand when she told me the price. This sounds much more advanced than it actually is. Its seriously less impressive when you understand that I only know numbers up to 6 (questionably) and have just become really good at mime.

Out of the shop, I continued around and crossed back over the river via a pretty cool foot bridge complete with bar and music at the other end.  It was empty but I can imagine that it is quite a fun place during the summer as there were soccer fields and basketball courts just below. Once across I saw a very strange artistic walk way (which I found out the next day leads up to the theatre building) and decided to have a stroll up it.
Crossing back over the River
Artsy trail on from the opposite side

Honestly it was getting late and I was more than a little cold. My legs had stared to hurt quite badly from the icey are that had picked up and so I sought refuge inside a rather large shopping mall. Nothing glamorous to tell you here except that I was also hoping to find you all some rather cool gifts but as is the case many times there was nothing there that you couldn't get at any mall in the US.

Once warm enough to walk back outside I decided that I had probably walked enough and knowing that I was pretty close to my apartment I took a quick stop at the super market, grabbed some yummy food for dinner, breakfast and something delicious to take with me on the plane the next day. I went home had an early night, ate dinner and watched The Big Bang Theory before falling quickly asleep.
Path around the east side

The next morning I was off pretty early. I walked the opposite direction that I had the day before. I had scoped out everything that night and knew about where I needed to be. I didn't want to over use my phone for fear that it might die before I made it to my hostel in Stockholm that evening and I knew that I would needed it to find the place, so I made pretty sure that I knew the path I needed to take. It made the adventure a little less fun but not by much as I still managed to lose my way a bunch of times (the street aren't well labelled and I said earlier).
Looking down across at my apartment



Vilnius

Most of the first 30 minutes to hour were spent in the "richest" area of Vilnius where all the embassy's are and many very large beautiful houses. Once through this portion I found a little foot bridge that cross the river into the very large park on the West side of the city and was off. The really cool thing about this park that  I read was that it houses all manner of sports. There was a rock climbing gym in the middle, there were on and off trail cross country ski paths, runners, mom's with babies, jungle gyms, outdoor exercise areas all secluded and surrounded by tall forest. It was fantastic. you didn't even know you were in a city any more.
Crossing into the Park







I spent quite a bit of time in this park and still only explored half of it. Then on my way out I checked out this old cemetery and found what google says is the best coffee shop in Vilnius, called "The Taste Map." It was pretty good but not sure I could say the best I have ever had (Igor's home roasted Coffee still takes that prize). There was another perk of this café which was that it was at the exact spot that I needed to catch the bus to the airport. I had a bunch of extra time after having some coffee and croissant at Taste Map so I found a local shop and bought home souvenirs.
Cemetery at end of the park


I caught the bus, made it to the airport and was on my way to Stockholm in no time.
Path day 2
Back in Stockholm I was able to find my hostel (after some searching). It was dark and cold and took me some time to find but I got there and checked in alright. When I walked up to the hard dorm I was staying in it was full and all the girls were already tucking in for the night. I looked at my watch and it was only 8:30pm, so I was rather surprised to say the least. I still needed to eat though so I dropped some of my stuff there and then went off in search of food.

I of course got lost trying to find the supermarket where Igor and I had been a month earlier. It seemed so distant and yet like it just happened and i couldn't for the life of me figure out why i couldn't find it. It wasn't like it was a small building that you could easily walk past, it was huge and in the middle of the major shopping street. I saw the store that ran into to ask if the had an adaptor. I saw the store that we sprinted to when the first store said that they didn't have it but the one down the way did and that they were closing in 5 minutes. And finally I found the shop that I was looking for. I ran down the stairs and got in about 3 minutes before close I grabbed whatever looked good and didn't require cooking as well as something that looked interesting and I wanted to try.

Then it was back out to feel my way around back to my hostel. I got in ate dinner, had to do a bit of work as well. Then when I finally was ready to get into bed, I felt a bit bad since all the other girls were long asleep and I disrupted them a bit. I forgot that in hostels you have to make your bed, and there was no where on my bunk to plug things in so I had to feel around the room for an outlet to make sure all my gear was charged and ready for the 11 hour flight home the next day.

As I was laying down to sleep a thought occurred to me. Way back when we bought our tickets I remembered suddenly my name change hadn't come through yet, so we booked my flight home under the last name of Malone. Problem is that I didn't have a single ID on me that had that last name any more. Not a passport, not a drivers license not a credit...oh wait! I still had my British Credit card and it was still under the name of Malone! By the time I had come to this realization though I had already woken Igor up 2 hours ahead of me) freaking out that we didn't ever change my last name on my ticket home and how was I going to be able to get through security and passport control, etc. etc, etc. Well then I remembered that I had a digital copy of our marriage certificate on my phone (don't ask, long story). So I finally did get some sleep still a bit nervous and worried that I might not be going home after all.

I met Igor in the morning at the airport and we went straight to the airline desk to figure out if I could still go home. Of course these tickets we bought through a third party company and not the airline itself so that was a bit of a challenge but in the end they issued me the ticket and we were able to go back check point one (check in). Then we headed to to the security line, no problem there, didn't check anything. Then it was through to passport control which wasn't so bad, then we got to the gate and there was another round of passport and ticket checks where we went through the same issues as when we checked in of me having to prove that I was Kathryn Malone and Kathryn Kuplevich (thank god for the marriage certificate copy!!! oh and I am pretty sure that having Igor there was also the only reason that they let me through).

And that's pretty much it folks. We did get on the plane, we did get home, I didn't need to wake Igor up early in the morning freaking out after all (sorry Igor).

I hope that you have enjoyed reading about our trip. It has taken a long time to document and I am sure that I left out some things, but for the most part you have it.

love, KK

Friday, February 10, 2017

The Great Freeze - Part 8

So now we are getting down to the last days of our trip. I know that some of you are asking where Norway is and when am I going to get to that part but unfortunately we were not able to make it there on this trip. The flight situation in and out of Minsk in terrible. If you are luck there is one flight out to where you want to go each day. There are usually stops, large layovers, and a possibility of the flight getting cancelled. To add to that our flight home was still out of Stockholm so we had to get back there which isn't really that easy either. In the end because Belarus wouldn't let me extend my visa two days so that Igor and I could travel to Sweden together, I got to add another destination to my trip but that will come later.

After the baptism we stayed in Minsk another day and then headed back to Zaslonova. Aunt Zena and Uncle Vasil came and we had another banya. All the ladies got in this time, which is rare since Igor's mom almost never joins in. Every time I am in the sauna with aunt Zena it is always eventful. I don’t know why but it is. This was no different although slightly more painful. When I am in the sauna I usually like the contrast between the hot steam and dowsing myself in cold water. However, when you are in the sauna with a bunch of Russian women they don't let you make it very very hot and they don't let you poor ice water over your head (lame). I did try but was yelled at. Not sure what they said but I got the message. I did however manage to pour scalding hot water on myself. My shoulder hurt for the rest of the night but it ended up being fine the next day so it wasn't quite as bad as I initially thought. Just to clarify this has nothing to do with Zena expect that she was there.

We got to see the school participate and crush everyone else in a mountaineering competition. I got a bunch of good pictures of the kids. Igor even got to help out with the event.



The competitors

pretty cool slide, hu?



The course

Allena (she won everything)

Kyril (he is the best, by far he was almost 2 minutes faster than everyone else)

Igor assisting one of the coaches who decided to run the course
Allena and Kyril are far and away the best climbers out there. Not only that but they are involved in everything. Kyril is a really good goalie for the school team. They both play basketball, and volleyball. All these kids are just fantastically motivated. I would like to note that there really were not many parents there even though it was on a weekend. Also, the kids here have an opportunity to come and do sports at the school ever evening. No one has to come and no one gets left out. Not even the old farts like Igor and I who come just to play and have a good time. How cool is that. What a great way to get kids to really want to participate.

After the competition we had to go to the village because it was -22F and the dog was freezing and Igor's grandmother needed help bring more wood in the house because it was so cold. So we went and Igor finished chopping that whole pile of wood. I helped for a little while but then got too cold and went back inside to snuggle up on the over with the cat.

The next day Igor and I said goodbye to his mom and dad, took the train to Orsha where is mom's sister and his grandmother live.



saying goodbye

Goodbye Zaslonova
 It is only a 10 minutes walk from the train station in Orsha to Igor's grandmothers house but let me tell you that was one of the longest 10 minutes i have ever spent anywhere. It was brutally cold, windy and after dark.  Being Belarus they had shut the heater off in the train about halfway through our 3-4 hour trip, not to mention the fact that the doors on the train don't close all the way. So we were already cold by the time that we stepped off the train. Then walking out in the snow and wind. I thought that my toes might actually get frost bite if we were out there much longer. There was not sweater relief than walking into the Igor's grandmothers house taking off my frozen boots and sticking my feet inches from the open flame stove in the kitchen. ahhhhhh so good!!! It did take a good 20 minutes to thaw my poor feet but they did thaw and there was no damage done.


before the train got cold

We spent the night at Aunt Vala's house across town. It was warmer and if you remember from the summer neither grandmother has an in door toilet....so the choice was a no brainer, although I will say that Igor had to point this out to me...I blame the cold, it made my mind all fuzzy. The next morning we took the train back Minsk since I was leaving on Monday for Vilnius, Lithuania (remember Belarus wouldn't let me add two days to my visa).

At Orsha Grandmother's

The train ride to Minsk was much warmer and yes they kept the heater on the whole time. Igor's brother picked us up. Igor had made plans to see one of his old college buddies that evening so Vasil and I dropped him off and then got lost trying to get out of the maze of apartment complexes where we had left Igor. Vasil ended up have to reverse down and extremely narrow "street" where there was barely enough room for one car to fit through. He did such an excellent job, I was really impressed. We did eventually make it back and I had dinner with Marina and Vasil while we waited for Igor.

In the morning Igor escorted me to my train which was pretty packed. Strangely they did not have a luggage area for people to store their large bags so they were just laid out mucking up the center aisle. But anyway. Igor got on the train with me, made sure I had the right seat and that everything was ok. Then he got off and waited right by my window until the train slowly pulled away running  along side until the train accelerated. And that was the last I saw of Igor until I met him at the airport 2 days later.

My train ride was uneventful. I didn't have any problem with the boarder agents, unlike the guy next to me who was from Oslo who had his bag searched and they asked him lots of questions. Turns out he spoke English and so we chatted for a bit on the last 30 minutes from that point of the train ride until we arrived in Vilnius.


 

Thursday, February 9, 2017

The Great Freeze - Part 7

On my birthday we went to the nearest town bought some good coffee grounds to make in our new coffee maker that we bought in Minsk and we also picked me out a birthday cake...birthday log....birthday cake log. Whatever it was good. I was openly wishing for snow on my birthday because it would make it more magical. Sometimes, just sometimes you get what you wish for and this was one of those times. It started snowing quite hard while we were in Lepel picking out my cake and it just kept on going. I was so elated I am pretty sure I told everyone who texted me about it.


Cake log (yeah that is a prune, shh it was awesome)


On my birthday afternoon we went and made banya (sauna) at Igor's grandmothers. While Igor and his dad were chopping wood I went for a walk and got some really great pictures. Oh and this time sauna was extra special. Usually in sauna the men and women are force to go in separately but since it was my birthday we pulled some strings and Igor and I got to go together. And Vicki (although there is no film evidence) I got in the snow like that picture of you from Finland. :p When we got home Igor and I got the apartment to ourselves as both his parents had to work and we spend a nice evening together cuddled up by the Christmas tree and watching a movie.




The next morning was a bit of chaos. We were going to Minsk for a few days to visit with Vasil (Igor's brother) and his family. We got up late and there was a bit of a to do because we apparently need to pack half of the house, half of the farm and pick up a bunch more stuff in the next town over before we went to Minsk. You may laugh but I kid you not we brought with us a huge bucket of apples, a large sack of potatoes, meat, honey, onions, and about 50 other things. There was barely enough room in the car for us. Ok that is a bit of an exaggeration but it was still an impressive amount of stuff. We got to Minsk in the afternoon, there was still light left so Igor went out to meet some of his friends and I took my sister in-law (wow that is still super weird to say) out for a walk around the city (kid free) and a hot cup of coffee.

She and I talked about life and being married to Kuplevich men, about how similar they are lol and about our own families. We had a really good time just hanging out. We made it back after dark and reprieved the grandparents of the two little girls (Rita 3, and Veronica 1). We talked about life some more and difficulties of parenting and such. I wasn't able to add a lot to this conversation just interjected some of the things that Kristin does with her boys and offered some suggestions if I could think of any. Over all it was a nice evening of just down time. Igor texted me and told me that he was going to come and pick me up so that we could spend the evening with Serge and Nastia, our friends that also live in Minsk.
Rita being a goob


Last time we met with them we had just come through London and were sharing all our wonderful experiences there. Turns out we sold it so well that they went not too long after us and loved it, if not maybe more than we did! They shared all the pictures and stories with us and we shared some of our new stories about the first half of our trip. Not sure we did as well on the sell this time but who knows, maybe next year we will hear how much they love some other place that we recommended.

We got back to Vasil's late and stayed up even later chatting and discussing religion a bit because Igor was slated to be the God Father of their youngest Veronica and there were some religious requirements that we were not sure Igor met. But it all turned out fine in the end and I'll share that bit, in a bit. Then finally hit the hay to get ready for another epic day.

The problem with being gone for soo long is that sometimes you get sick. Well I woke up in the morning and immediately knew this day was going to be problematic. Igor and I were slated to go hang out with a bunch of people and Marina and I were supposed to go and do something fun and girly, but unfortunately all that got put on a swift hold. We were able to find me some medicine that made me feel a bit better but it took about 4 or 5 hours for it to work and so I spent the better part of the day on the couch. Igor stayed with me for awhile but it was pretty obvious that there wasn't anything that he could do and when you don't feel well the last thing that you really want is a bunch of people looming over you asking if you are ok or if you feel better ever 5 minutes, on top of which I already had enough of those between Marine (who took very good care of me) and Igor's mom (who is nurse in the military base hospital).
Marina and I were able to go out side for a bit although not long and I felt badly that we were pretty much resigned to the house all day when she doesn't get many opportunities to have others watch her girls for her.

Anyhow, the next day I was a bit better and when we got back to Zaslonova Igor's mom was able to get me even better medicine from the base hospital. In the end it all worked ok and I didn't end up having to use the medical insurance that was required for me to get a visa and I didn't have to see a doctor but all the same being sick in a foreign Country where you don't speak the language is a tough situation and I am very thankful to have a great (extended) new family.

New years was up next (just to clarify not the next day but I don't remember what happened the other days) and Igor's best friend from school was in town, so of course he came over. His name is also Serge, and to distinguish between the two were call this one Yoga Serge as he is a professional (and I am told the best) yogi in Belarus. He is also Igor's first chess rival so you know what that meant...yep and epic several hour long chess match that ended dramatically in a draw. After which Serge went home and we ate lots of food.

The traditional New years celebration in Belarus I have decided consists of three things, tons and tons of food (the word smorgasbord come to mind), really crap T.V. which is really just  music concerts for 3 days, and alcohol... and food.

We had just finished eating when another one of Igor's friends came over and invited us to come down to his place (2 floors below us) and join his family. So we did and that mean an already very very full Katie was required out of stupidity and politeness, which in this case are pretty much the same thing, to eat even more food. One thing that no one seems to have is water, and of course that is all I really wanted. There was all sorts of juice and wines and Vodka but water....nope. oh well. After about 3 minutes we carried ourselves back upstairs and plopped down in front of the TV to wait for midnight, when we could open presents.

Igor and I had sneaked some additional gifts into the house earlier when his parents were not home. We even found wrapping paper and Christmas-esk boxes to put the gifts in. Igor had gotten each of his parents a new fitbit, really good coffee for their new coffee pot and we had found a really nice tea (French press) coffee maker for his mom. Overall it was a wonderful New Year/late Christmas for me.

On New Years day we met up with Yoga Serge and his girlfriend to go to the sacred springs (yeah we went back). I know, I know I said I would do it but my excuse is that I still wasn't feeling well and it was really quite cold out.

So you remember when I said that constructing really simplistic sentence in English can be difficult, especially when you are trying to make sure that people understand what you say. Well I am about to do you one better. Serge's girlfriend didn't speak much English, however she did speak German, some French and obviously Russia. I don't claim to speak German, although I know a few words and there are some similarities with English,  I can speak simple French and I know some Russian words. Between French, German, English and Russian Paulina (Serge's girlfriend) and I were able to hold a pretty good conversation and I must say I am extremely proud of both of us. Not many people could make that work and I think, come out understanding pretty well.

Igor and Yoga Serge


The gang

That's Paulina on the left (I am not so good with Selfies)

The ladies

This blog could go on and on and on with the list of things that we did in Belarus, but to be honest I am getting a bit tired of tying all this out. It is like reliving the whole thing again and I feel like I need a vacation from this vacation blog. With that in mind I am going to do the "Cliff Notes" version of the rest of our time in Belarus. If you want more details, call me.

We went back to Minsk to participate in the Baptism of Veronica (our youngest niece). It was in a Russian orthodox chapel and was what I imagine to be very similar to the catholic version of baptism. I did try to explain to Marina that the way that my sister and I were Baptised was in a swimming pool. lol Mine was in my high school swimming pool and a total spur of the moment thing. Kristin probably thought hers out a bit more but I am pretty sure it was still in a swimming pool. Ahhh New age Christians, crazy kooks.  Anyway a bunch of pictures:

the kirk

Do I look Russian enough for you?

Look at this hunk of man

psst...Igor is wearing his brothers clothes.

I think we look pretty good, no?

She's is cute

Marina's sister Svetta (God mother)

Let the Ceremony begin

gotcha

watcha doin'?

awww, not cool man

"I don't know about you mister"



Kind of looks like he's carrying a sack of potatoes


sharing secrets


have to have an arty photo ever now and again

at the market after the Baptism

Its like when you see someone swarmed by puppies

seriously.... puppy tackle

Family